Some Johnson Countians seem convinced that they will break out in hives if they dare wander north of 103rd Street. Sadly, such folks are closing themselves off to some of the city’s culinary wonders. A wealth of extraordinary (and authentic) Mexican fare exists along the Southwest Boulevard corridor, and in some other select spots in Kansas City, Kan.
Regardless, some will never stray beyond their geographic (and culinary) comfort zones — with regard to Mexican food, or anything else. And for them, Los Cabos (10551 Mission Rd., Leawood, Kan.) offers the sort of Mexican food that they recognize and appreciate.
Los Cabos is part of the K.C. Hopps restaurant group, that features other popular eateries such as Blue Moose, 810 Zone and 75th Street Brewery. The restaurant sits within the bustling Mission Farms retail section of Leawood, that includes several other restaurants, as well. Rather exclusive condominiums sit atop the Mission Farms retail spots, presumably tempting residents to venture downstairs in bathrobes and slippers for meals at the Mission Farms restaurants. Maybe for a dish of guacamole at Los Cabos.
Los Cabos occupies a bright space, dominated by rust-colored walls and beach décor. Surfboards and artistic renderings of the sun decorate the walls A bar trimmed with a sort of straw roof sits in the middle of the place — that appears to have been lifted from a beachside, Cancun resort. A fake parakeet and large trees sit near the entrance. A few televisions are scattered about, as well. So many restaurants undercut their décor and mood with a smattering of TV’s, when they would be better served restricting the TVs to the bar area. Like nearly all Mexican spots, Los Cabos brought out complimentary chips and salsa. One companion complained that the chips were not served warm — frankly an easy touch that does add to the experience. The complimentary salsa was somewhat watery and underwhelming, lacking the layers of flavor that permeate the best versions.
Our waitress confirmed one night what we had expected: The Tableside Guacamole ($9.99) is one of the more popular menu selections. Whether in Vegas, Hollywood or Leawood, diners still love a good show. Our waitress brought a large bowl of extremely ripe avocadoes, already cut, and an array of smaller bowls that contained red onions, salt and pepper, garlic, jalapenos and cilantro. A lime and an orange also sat atop the tray, and the waitress oddly deemed the orange the “magic ingredient.”
I requested that the cilantro be left out. Cilantro is one of those herbs that folks either love or hate. Our waitress mixed and chopped everything together in a molcajete (a rough-surfaced bowl commonly used to grind spices), leaving the tasty avocados rather chunky in the finished product.
Guacamole is an enormously personal dish. Some want to taste primarily avocadoes and little else, while others appreciate a broader range of flavors (including cumin and chiles, among others). This guacamole was more dressed down and basic than the better, more complex versions that I prefer.
The Queso Fundido Espinaca ($5.99) was an excellent take on the classic Mexican cheese dip, though, with plenty of green onions and tomatoes, and a nice kick — served with very good grilled flour tortillas (with picturesque grill marks and prominent grill flavor).
Los Cabos seems to fare best when it dabbles just outside the more recognizable Mexican arena within which many Americans are comfortable. The Braised Chipotle Short Ribs ($13.99) were an artistically presented plate of tender, crispy brisket atop Boniato mashed potatoes (a sort of white sweet potato available year round in Florida) with very good fried onions on top. The dish had an interesting array of flavors ranging from slightly sweet to just a bit spicy.
The Fresh Fish Tacos ($11.99) were a good rendition, as well —offered either breaded and fried or sauteed. Our knowledgeable waitress recommended the fried version — pointing out that it was made with tilapia, while the sautéed version employed Mahi-Mahi. The sampled fried version came with three tacos in flour tortillas. The fish had a nice, crispy breading and was covered in a chipotle-lime crème fraiche, that added a smoky and spicy finish (though one friend thought the sauce overwhelmed the fish).
Two sampled dishes were more comfortably within the realm of Mexican fare that Americans seem to relish. A companion ordered the substantial Cabos Burrito with ground beef ($9.99), and found it stuffed with loads of seasoned ground beef, mixed cheeses and black beans. The good queso cheese that we had sampled as an appetizer was slathered on top. The burrito was fine, but lacked the flavor elements to push it much beyond similar versions found at more casual Mexican chain establishments.
Chicken Enchiladas ($9.99) are a safe bet at most places. The Los Cabos version included three hefty enchiladas, filled with a mixture of pulled chicken and a creamy cheese filling, of some sort. The enchiladas were (again) fine, but were somewhat mundane.
Most entrees at Los Cabos come with sides of red rice and refried beans — rather average takes on the ubiquitous mainstays served on the side at Mexican restaurants, everywhere.
There is nothing wrong with familiarity. The trick is to bring something new to the discussion. Lure us a bit outside of our comfort zones long enough to dazzle us. But let’s face it, we are a particularly “safe” and conservative lot, out here south of 103rd Street. We like Mexican food that we have seen and tasted before. Maybe guacamole assembled tableside pushes the envelope just about far enough.
Food: ** ½
Atmosphere: ** ½
Service: ***
Out of four stars