Who passed a rule that only hippies and cramming collegians could set up camp at joints that focus their efforts on coffee and other libations? It’s an absurd notion. We yearn for such joints long after we start having kids. Responsibility. Jobs. We may not have as much time to enjoy them, but we still relish low key places where we can sit down with a good cup of coffee. A drink. And maybe even some decent food. Though clearly Take Five Coffee + Bar (5336 W. 151st Street) in Leawood won’t toss out the hippies or the cramming collegians, it seems more concerned with filling the void for the rest of us.
On one visit, we approached Take Five as a family affair. We picked a comfortable booth near the entrance, and sat down to take in the mood of the place — evidently geared to fostering a feeling of community and a vague sense of escape from the chaos of the day. Food is ordered at the counter, and brought out to the tables when it is ready. The kids’ meals came out first. Exhibiting wisdom sometimes sorely lacking in much more sophisticated spots, our server said, “I thought you would probably want the kids’ food out quick.” A small, but gallant gesture.
A conspicuous absence of televisions spoke volumes. Might some folks come here in search of good conversation? Peace and quiet? Some of the walls are papered with burlap sacks that held (or appear to have held) coffee beans. There are yellow/gold light fixtures, above, and stone tile floors, below. Black and white pictures of jazz musicians and singers are on the walls. Soft jazz music plays in the background. A stone fireplace rests at one end of the place.
Take Five’s “Lunch/Dinner” menu is small, by conventional restaurant standards — though probably of reasonable size for a coffee and liquor “joint.” It offers three appetizers, two salads (with chicken and salmon as add-ons), and five Panini sandwiches. We tried the Spinach Artichoke Dip ($4.95, $7.95) — a decent, creamy version of the ubiquitous appetizer dip, with mostly spinach, and two big pieces of artichoke heart plopped down in the dip’s center. We dunked nice, warm pita bread in the dip, though tri-colored chips are also offered as a dunking option.
All five sandwiches are served as “crisp” ciabatta Panini. The word Panini emanates from the Italian word Panino, which refers to sandwiches, in a more general sense. In this country, though, Panini are more commonly considered to be pressed and toasted sandwiches — often grilled. I tried the rather interesting Pacific (Panini) ($7.95), with grilled salmon, tomatoes, spinach, artichoke and cream cheese. This was solid ciabatta bread, though it was not nearly as “crisp” as anticipated — and certainly not pressed and grilled to the extent we are accustomed with Panini. The salmon is a surprisingly respectable version, however, for this casual, coffee shop venue, and the flavors of the “Pacific” blend well together. Sandwiches are offered with a choice of chips, cottage cheese or “twice baked” potato salad (the latter of which is pre-made off the premises, with bacon already mixed in).
My wife sampled the Spinach Salad ($5.95), served with chopped egg, plum tomatoes and parmesan cheese, and she added chicken ($2). The salad was only moderate in size — maybe to be expected, given the price — and the chicken was a bit dry and lacking much flavor. She requested it with ranch dressing. Most disappointing was that — as the server behind the counter confirmed — none of the three offered salad dressings (raspberry vinaigrette, ranch, honey mustard) were made in-house. Having a limited menu yields additional responsibility in regard to the quality of the offerings. Making one (or more) of the salad dressings in-house would be a sure way for Take Five to bring its culinary stature to the next level.
During another visit — on an unseasonably warm Sunday in February — we sampled the breakfast offerings. Three different house-made quiches were on hand ($4.25). We tried one with a satisfying blend of red pepper, parmesan, pesto and chicken. We were served a rather hefty slice, with a buttery, flaky crust, that had a lingering pesto flavor in each bite. The Turkey Sausage Panini ($2.95) came sandwiched with hardboiled eggs and a gooey portion of provolone cheese to complement the sausage. It was a good sandwich and a good value — albeit nothing extraordinary.
Our favorite breakfast option — that would have frankly been tremendous any time of day — was the house-made Cinnamon Roll ($1.99). It was a large, moist, icing-covered rendition with loads of cinnamon. The muffins and scones are also generally baked in-house. Offered pastries are best paired (of course) with a range of coffee offerings roasted for Take Five by Zoka Coffee Roasters, in Seattle. Zoka was founded by University of Washington alumnus Jeff Babcock, in 1996. Zoka’s café in Washington is rooted in a concept that Take Five emulates: a café in which patrons are invited to eat and drink (coffee or harder stuff) for an extended period of time in a relaxed environment.
While Take Five might never draw the most sophisticated culinary crowd, that does not appear to be the intention. Rather, it seems driven to pull in folks looking to unwind with a drink — coffee, or otherwise — who may want to grab a quick bite while they are at it. Birkenstocks and laptops are optional.
Food: 2½
Service: 2½
Atmosphere: 3
Out of Four Stars
